The Greater Journey: Americans in Paris

Simply one of the most enjoyable books I have read for a long time. I particularly loved how the author combined the stories of artists with the turbulent history of (mainly) nineteenth century Paris. But not only artists, medical students, inventors, showmen, diplomats, forward thinkers and thought changers, always with Paris as an active participant, as a concept, as a way of life and as a tangible force shaping our world. I have to thank Amazon very much for recommending The Greater Journey as one of their daily suggestions. I was dubious about the subtitle “Americans in Paris“ but I took a chance, it was a reasonable price and I love most things Parisian. I even hesitated to start readIng the book, I have so many other books I “need“ to read. I thought I would just read a few pages and see how it was (this is me - not the world's authority - hesitating to read an author that I later discover is a double Pulitzer Prize winner - sorry). I will tell you how it was for me, it was engrossing, enthralling and entirely wonderful.

This is a beautifully written and interesting narrative, concerning those Americans who sailed or came by steamer ships from New York and other eastern seaboard ports and as far south as Louisiana to France. Some arrived at Le Havre, others at Calais and Boulogne, after which they faced an onward 24 hour journey to Paris by a diligence. It certainly raises the question - what drove these Americans to undertake such a potentially dangerous crossing of the Atlantic, not necessarily speaking any French and having, in most cases, limited financial resources? David McCullough's book spans the period 1830 to 1900, a period known as the Belle Époque, meaning the Beautiful Epoch. Throughout this period, Paris was the acknowledged hub from the standpoint of technical and artistic knowledge and accomplishment and it was this that drew Americans from the New back to the Old World. Whilst Paris was an exciting, perhaps romantic city, until 1853 it was nonetheless a Medieval cesspit. The narrative follows the fortunes of a number of talented American (and French) individuals, some of whom will be well known, others not but there are plenty of surprises as their respective life-stories unfold. Many of the people David McCullough introduces would experience the July Revolution, culminating in the overthrow of King Charles X, equally, some remained in Paris during the Franco-Prussian War and the Siege of Paris. Not that it was in question but this is a further example of David McCullough's skill at historical narrative. It is an enjoyable, informative book. A highly recommended read.

We hear a lot of artists in Paris, but I did not know that in the 19th century Paris was the place to go if you wanted to be a doctor. This is a wonderfully organized book that gives the history of the young people who went to Paris to learn. We also learn of a diplomat, Elihu Washburne, who was in Paris during the upheavals during the latter part of the 19th century. Also included are tidbits about performers who went to Paris during that time. Slightly dry sometimes, but for the most part it is fascinating. One of the things I like most about this book is that we continue to hear of how the people fared once they left Paris to return to the United States. I listened to the unabridged Audible version of this book. Nicely done.

In a PBS interview David McCullough said, “I have felt, for a very long time, that history is more than the politics and the military and the social issues…it is also art and music and architecture and ideas and science and medicine, the works, it’s human.” David McCullough has written a delightful story about the human side of history. A tale about the first group of Americans who went to Paris to advance their knowledge and talents then bring that knowledge back to America. The story opens in 1829, before Paris had her Eifel Tower and New York her Statue of Liberty, and concludes at about 1900 after both became symbols of those great cities. He is interested in this first group of aspiring artists, sculptors and medical students because their pilgrimage is little known while what they accomplished in their later lives is so vital to our history, knowledge and creative inspiration. The characters of his story are some of the most important and influential and creative persons of their day and still important today. They include Samuel Morse, James Fenimore Cooper, Mary Cassatt, John Singer Sargent, Elihu Washburne, Augustus Saint-Gaudens, Charles Sumner and Oliver Wendell Holmes Sr but there are many more in McCullough’s story. The setting is Paris and social, military and political issues do intrude on the studies and works of these intrepid Americans. Even though Washburne did not go to Paris to study, learn and return to enlighten his fellow Americans, his story is profound and I am glad it was included. I had no idea what Washburne did during the Siege of Paris. It is a stirring and fascinating story. I also did not know that the depravity of the Paris Commune far exceeded that of the Siege. This book is not without its shortcomings. Although the author did want to include developments and advances in science and technology, he really spends much more time on the great medical education available in Paris; free to foreigners. That is why Oliver Wendell Holmes Sr went to Paris in 1833. At the end of the book McCullough begins Chapter 14 with Holmes’ return visit in 1886. We are told of the tremendous reception he received in London, how he was celebrated by the Royal College of Surgeons and how he was awarded honorary degrees from Cambridge and Oxford. Not much information as to why. We are not told of Holmes’ accomplishments in the US after his Paris medical education. A scene is described of Holmes meeting Louis Pasture: “I told him [Holmes said] I was an American physician who wished to look in his face and take his hand – nothing more.” Why would ALL of London’s important physicians honor Holmes while none in Paris knew who he was, what he struggled for, or new anything of his accomplishments? Why did the author not include any of that? Never mind, look it up if you are curious. I had too much fun with this book to get...

If you are looking for a book that takes from to A to Z in linear order, you could very well be disappointed. The subtitle, “Americans in Paris,” is the subject of this book, and, in this case, it means that McCullough will focus on quite a few Americans in the years 1830 - 1900. To quote McCullough’s prefatory remarks to the notes on chapter 7. “Often it is the secondary characters in events of the past, like secondary characters in the theater, who have the most pertinent or entertaining observations to contribute.” To present seventy years of Americans in Paris, and the dynamic changes of Paris, itself, McCullough finds many Americans whose insights and experiences he shares. Some may find this approach boring, but this is still vintage David McCullough thinking and prose. I found most of the stories illuminating, and figures like Elihu Washburn were revelations for me. McCullough gave me insights on Americans that I thought that I knew well (J F Cooper, J S Sargent, ...). My knowledge of 19th century Paris was greatly expanded as well. If you enjoy history books that travel less well known byways, this book should appeal.